Thursday, 3 April 2014

Day 7-9, San Cristabol ( Steak Eating competition & Indigenious community visits )





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The night First class bus did not go well for me, because I did not prepare well. 

The first 7 hours of the 13 hour journey was unrelenting winding road, up and down, left and right, and I was using my laptop.  On noticing  a quesy feeling was developing in the stomach, I quickly shut it down.  But it was too late.  Sitting in the darkness, I had nothing to distract the swaying sensation. An hour later, I went from bad to worse, and ended up with serious motion sickness effect....fortunately, I had a small plastic bag on hand.





That’s the problem for not being at the wheel driving.......


Still we arrived in relatively good shape after this 13 hour ordeal.


San Cristobal is a nice little town for a 3 day layover of our journey, we can all spread out, relax and catching up on little chores like laundries, emails etc.

The next bus ride in two days time will be even worse, I was told....well that means a trip to the local pharmacy.



That's the problem for not being at the wheel driving.........




Guadalupe Church on Cerro Guadalupe


View from Cerro Guadalupe

Guadalupe Church on Cerro Guadalupe




Cathedral de San Cristobal




San Cristobal Church
The town is a little town with plenty of characters, calm and fully of colourful houses near the town centre, however, the further away, the more indigenous it gets.




I enjoyed walking around the town for hours, and marvel at the colourful fruits and vegetables on sale in the open market.  The odd thing was, for 10 Pesos I can get a large bucket of fresh fruit compote, which is quite a lot cheaper to buy then fruits from the stalls....something is not right here!






Visit to San Critobal would not be complete without a visit to Casa Na Bolom Museum / cafe, originally set up by two Swedish journalist and environmentalist, who spent much of their professional life researching Mayan culture in the nearby area during the 50s -70s.

Casa Na Bolom or the House of Puma




After a day of walking around, a Steak Eating Competition....is the thing that you do to fan up an otherwise very cheerful team of adventurers in San Cristobal.



And the final count was...6 steaks in a single setting...

Here's how it progressed..




 Still a few left, they are onto the 4th...a Rib Eye each



And they are still going....now the 5th, a piece of their most favourite




After a slight hesitation.....they then moved onto the 6th...all smiling!




Not to be outdone....




Who else is there to egg everyone on....Yours Truly, the vegetarian, of course! Even, I still gave in to a fish dish.




And........the winner is...after the Sirloin, New York, Rib Eye, T-Bone, and some repeats..all freshly bbq.....




By the way, they were all fit, fresh and ready for a whole day of walking the following day, when we went visiting a couple of the remote Indigenous communities.


We visited a couple of the indigenous tribes in the nearby highlands, and were introduced to their customs, tunics, agricultural and their religious practices.




Some of the local communities have the right to apply their own traditional tribal laws and dish out punishments, within the framework of the Mexican laws. For most small community crimes, they have their own tribal police forces, courts and penal system, however, on serious criminal cases, the Federal Mexican system takes over.

Tribal Policemen

Meeting of Tribal Chiefs

When we visit the local Cathedral, we were introduced to the concept of mixing traditional belief and Catholicism.  The Catholic priest is only allowed to come to the Cathedral when permitted or required, mostly to attend to Christening or Weddings. In ordinary times, they are kept away from the area, and the locals practice their traditional religion in the Cathedral, worshiping their own Gods.  In fact, when we visit inside the Cathedral, it is very much like a market place, where people burn candles to their own icons and there are shaman running ceremonies wherever they find a space, which bears no resemblance to the normal Catholic faith. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed inside.

A local Cathedral


In the vicinity of San Cristobal, it has one of the richest deposits of Amber in the World.  The Amber Museum in town, showcases the mining of Amber as well as the fashioning of Amber into jewelries and ornamental objects.

Amber blocks

Amber jewellries and objects
We finished our last night in San Cristobal by enjoying an Opera. It was the story of King Pakal, the legendary Mayan King who built the huge and majestic Palenque tombs, which happened to be our next destination. 


The Production was very well presented and entertaining, the only regret is, I could not understand the language.





The visit to culture rich San Cristobal has been extremely interesting, and educational, certainly has opened my eye to the pre-Columbian history this part of Mexico.


Next Post: Palenque - the tombs of the Pakal


INDEX to All Other Posts

Wednesday, 2 April 2014

Day 5-6 Oaxaca & Monte Alban ruins


Photo Album: Oaxaca & Monte Alban

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Our rental private bus took us from Puebla to Oaxaca through some winding highways with great open landscapes.  The Mexican highways are of good quality, and the drivers are generally quite polite, even in the mega-metropolis of Mexico City.




As soon as we dropped our bags, we were out walking. Our hotel was only a block or so from the busy and chaotic ( unlike Puebla ) town square and market.  



We tasted the renowned Mexican brew, Mezcal, somewhat between a liqueur and a wine....and there are some 12 varieties...enough to drive me drunk.  







And there was the chocolate factory sweetening up the deal.  Not to forget the sampling of the famous Mole source, a chilli chocolate sauce very popular in Mexico, originated from here.






And I forgot to mention the spicy fried grasshoppers...some small then dried shrimps, some big ones.  When I took the camera to sample some, the hawker lady quickly flick a newspaper over it, sorry, no pictures!





The town square was full of people, seem very rural types, there must be some sort of a gathering for them there.....




The next morning, we went in our bus, with a very knowledgeable indigenous guide for Monte Alban, a pre-Columbian archaeological site.




Sitting on top of a man made leveled ridge, Monte Alban ruin, dates back to 500 BC, was the power centre of Oaxaca and the surrounding regions for many centuries. 












This particular site has many carved stones depicting various stories, and a language that is still undecoded today.





Interestingly, the diggings also revealed a people of great vanity, in order to project power and nobility. Means are used to make a human with a jaguar look...flattening their foreheads and their skulls by pressing the babies’ head when they are young, fashioning their teeth, cut their forelips to expose the ornaments drilled into the front teeth etc.





This piece of old grand vanity was built on a man made plateau, by all estimation, would have taken 150 years just to prepare. And more centuries to finish....then it all went to ruin, forgotten, until the first intensive archaeological exploration of the site conducted in 1902.

And we played Indiana Jones in one of the tombs....




After Mont Alban, some of us decided to continue with our guide, Benito, to visit a few other attractions of Oaxaca.

When the fat lady sings..., so they say!...well this one does not sing, but if she does, she’ll be a super dame.




With a girth of 58 meters, she safely claims to the fattest, Arbol del Tule of Oaxaca, Mexico, the fattest tree of the World.



I’ll let your imagination run wild here.

The local kids call one part of it, Clinton, the other, Lewinsky....why, ......I really shall leave it here. 




And there local weaving masters, candle masters, not to mention, more Mezcal breweries that show the entire making process.


Weaving Master showing her colours

A great selection of Mezcals

Mezcal brewery

Candle Master at work

Candles for asking a girls parents for her hand....

And tonight, we are taking a 13 hour bus ride, on first class comfort ( however comfortable a bus can be !) to get to San Cristabol de las Cases.