Wednesday 16 April 2014

Day 20 - 23 Coastal drive to Atacama Desert


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When it was time to change to the joining hotel for the next leg of the trip, the 56 day Tucan Overland Tour to Quito, Ecuador, I was misled by Google Map, big time.



Instead of pointing me to the correct location, which is only a bare 800m from the apartment hotel, which I could have just walked, instead of taking the metro, making connections, and walked a good 1 Km to find out that it is wrong, then back to the metro, and more walking up and own with the heavy backpack.  Go&%*^#@, thanks.


During the briefing meeting for the tour, it only dawn to me then, that there are going to be more camping that I had anticipated, certainly, I did not digest all the information given.  So I did not bring a sleeping bag, and it was too late to look for one in Santiago, given that it is too late in the evening and not knowing where to look for a shop.

Well, I’ll just have to see what comes, and deal with it.

Fortunately, looks like I am the odd male out, so I'll be having a single room all to myself for a little while, until the next intake of more "trippers".

The Tucan Overland Truck is a monster, with seating capacity of more than 34, and ample storage space underneath, it was more then roomy for the 14 of us plus the tour leader, Ninka and Will the driver.






We were organised into 3 groups, rotating our duties to clean the truck daily ( mainly for hygiene, comfort and food safety ), preparing meals which are included in the itinerary, mainly during camping days, and washing up etc.

Most of  the group was from Australia, and one each from England, Scotland, Switzerland and Austria ,  aside from Kam and Yvon.  The tour leader, Ninka is Dutch, and the driver Will, from South Africa.  The age is heavily tilted towards the 20+, with few in the 30+ then, it is oldies like us.

Us included a couple from Hong Kong, Kam and Yvon, both studied in Australia, traveled with the group, since early March from Rio, Brazil.  A very rare baby boomer couple, who are so adventurous, from Hong Kong !!

But we ALL shared a strong sense of adventure, and a come what may attitude.

Come-what-may it shall be.




We left Santiago downtown shortly after 9, and it was a long drive ( 470 Km ) to the seaside village of Guanaqueros, on our way to the driest place on earth, the Atacama Desert.



The weather was very misty during the best parts of the trip, along coastal roads, however it cleared up, when we arrived.


First of many more roadside lunches enroute
When we stopped for lunch, I certainly can see how the groups worked together, organising, and cleaning up everything, working like clockworks.  Sure, they had good practices since starting from Rio in Brazil 6 weeks ago.




Fortunately, one of our team member, Scot had a spare sleeping bag, and with a number of thick blankets from the truck, I was able to withstand the cold night and nights thereafter.

Clearly, at this time of the year, being mid autumn, I can't expect much more than this weather.

The facilities at the camping ground was not comparable to the average camping grounds in Australia, especially one that is so close to the beach.  This was my second taste of Chilean camping.  First being in Torres Del Paine National Park a year ago.

The rice cooked by the other team was mushy...something needed to be done ! That’s for later.



We had a bonfire on the beach, until late.

Early in the morning, being the first one up just before dawn, I took a long walk along the beach to the village, there were quite a few stray dogs accompanying, some were just playing and running around me.  It seems that they are looking for company rather than food, as they all seem well fed, not surprisingly though, tourist left overs should see to that.  One was quite "dutifully" walking besides me, wherever I went, sometime hugging me legs....

One must wonder how these dogs come about?

I tried to fix and light the gas water heaters for a hot water shower to no avail, fortunately someone turned up later to fix it, so that we can all enjoy a hot shower. Some had cold ones last night in the cold.

After lunch, Kam, Yvon and I caught a bus to La Serena, a main town 50 Km away.  We walked through this old town, with some Spanish Colonial buildings.






The local shopping centre is very modern and busy, selling all the latest goods for the locals.  I tried to see what sleeping bags are available, but they were too expensive, double the prices of Australia. 





Seeing that after the next few days of camping, there isn’t much more afterwards, so I decided to wait until La Paz in Bolivia, which I was told, should be a whole lot cheaper.




Guanaqueros – Bahia Inglesa (Good Friday )

An 6:30 start was called for, as it was to be a long journey ( 445 Km ) to Bahia Inglesa, our next stop.

Day light wouldn’t break until 8, and it was still misty and cold well into lunch time, before sunlight took hold in the early afternoon.




With the clearer vision, we can see there are deserts on both sides of the highway, we were already in the Atacama Desert region.

It look pretty much like UTAH, but the less interesting parts of UTAH, so far.





Bahia Inglesa is a small seaside village, with a bay that provides some nice shallow clear blue water swimming, a good place to lazy around for an afternoon. It was Good Friday, so we were joined by quite a few Chilean or ( Latino ) tourists.


Setting up tents





After walking around the township during the late afternoon, it was time again to figure out how to get a proper hot water shower !!

These camping manager just do not do their work properly, only 1 out of 4 shower facilities had hot water, even that was very limited, no more than one can shower at the one time to ensure a good supply.  Anyway !!


During the night, despite there being quite a few campers around, the Chilean were a noisy lot, musics was still heard playing aloud at midnight.  Then there is this party of campers next to me, who chose to chat and drink well until 5 am., I just could not figure what were they thinking.

On the 4th day out of Santiago, we had another very long day ahead of us, an 830 Km drive to San Pedro de Atacama, so we left just after 7.  Again, everybody put in the effort to ensure an early punctual start.

It was indeed a very long day, being in the desert area, and there are not rest stops with facilities, it was something hard to find a place for everyone to have a comfort stop.  We had to made do with ditches along the road for the ladies, and the other side of the highway for the men in some places.


Again, the sun did not break through until late in the moring.  I seated in the front to take advantage of the clear weather for some faraway views and picked Will's brain for my upcoming African trip. And he has a wealth of knowledge of his homeland, indeed, especially when it comes to driving in Southern Africa.



One thing I did learn, at least, was the International Carnet document for taking my own vehicle overseas, which seems a good way to exploring Africa in Langi, my Landcruiser 80 series. Really something to mull over !



Soon after lunch, we passed the famous Hand In The Desert sculpture, and continued on after a few photos including a group photo were taken.  The weather was very good, owning to the fact that Atacama Desert is arguably the driest place on earth.









We passed many big and small mines,  but not quite knowing what they were mining for.  And one apparently looks like a prison as well ! I don't think any inmates are interested in escaping into the desert !



We reached the town Calama just before 5, and went into the local shopping centre for some shopping at the supermarket for foods and other supplies.  This really is an oasis of civilisation in this huge desert, very surprising to see, with the frenzy activities and the quality of products on offer.  What that tells me, is, Chile is enjoying a mining boom much like what's happening in Australia.





It was another 100 Km to San Pedro de Atacama in the late afternoon, the scenery was particularly beautiful under the setting sun, especially when we passed an area that has some very interesting soil corrosion.  I think it is the Valley of the Moon where we are going to tour, late afternoon, tomorrow.

And the majestic Licancabur Volcano that towers above, tells us that we had indeed arrived.  It was over 1800 Km drive for 4 days since we left Santiago.

And we just reached the edge of the highlands of Andes, at 2400m Above Sea Level ( ASL ), even that is already higher than the tallest mountain in Australia, Mt Kosciusko !





The big truck had to negotiate through some very narrow and low clearance streets through the village of San Pedro to our campsite, and our driver, Will, made it, not without a lot of sweats, I thought.

By the time we were ready to set up tent, it was well after 8 pm., and it was a rush to get dinner and tent ready.  Consequently we missed the hot water for a proper shower.

When I heard that rice was needed for the dinner, I volunteered to cook the rice for the group.  And they are praising the firm and chewy rise compare to the mushy one a couple of nights ago!

The camping ground, really is the backyard of some local’s house, with some very rustic facilities, and just a solar powered hot water supply.




Next Post:  San Pedro de Atacama - Moon & Death Valley and Geysers

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